Jack Ethier’s last pot of marmalade is bubbling on the stove. 

It’s the final batch of the specific type of oranges Ethier needs for marmalade. Earlier this winter, a priest from Vancouver called him up and said he had found crates of Seville oranges in a market downtown. Did Jack want to make them into marmalade? Of course he did. 

Outside Ethier’s kitchen window, the sun is setting behind the hills. Inside, golden light illuminates clusters of colourful jars full of translucent orange marmalade, red quince jelly, and other jewel-toned jams. Each one is labeled with a blue sticker.